Drive west from Steamboat Springs and you’ll quickly drop away from the mountains, and begin to cross lands drained by the last undammed river in the entire Colorado River system. The Yampa starts high on the western slope of Colorado’s Rocky Mountain range, flowing westward ever westward, until deep in the heart of Dinosaur National Monument it joins the Green River in the shadow of Steamboat Rock. The two lane US 40 follows the folds and rills of range land through Craig, and Maybell (last gas for 60 miles, and not always open) past cattle herds, wildfire damage, and roadhouses. Eventually you reach the Canyon Visitor Center of Dinosaur National Monument, and the small town of Dinosaur Colorado.
Now, given the name, one would expect to find dinosaur fossils in Dinosaur Colorado. Yet its name is actually a case of excellent promotion on the part of town fathers decades ago, showing the evolution of what attracts people to a town. First named Artesia to attract possible settlers because of water, the potential to draw tourists traveling along US 40 came to be more important. There are thousands of dinosaur fossils in the general area, and can be viewed at the Quarry Visitor Center of Dinosaur National Monument another 25 miles westward along US 40 (follow the signs once you reach Jensen Utah).
What makes the Canyons of Dinosaur so interesting? As mentioned earlier, the Yampa River is the last undammed river in the ENTIRE Colorado River river shed. This means that it has the only unrestrained spring floods that continue to naturally carve the canyons eroding them in the same way that canyons have been formed since time immemorial, making it one of the most desired rafting destinations in the American West, with permits distributed via lottery. The Yampa River rafting trips take several days, starting just north of Maybell Colorado and ending on the Green River just north of Jensen Utah passing through several CLASS III and one CLASS IV rapids.
Another thing that makes the canyon region special is its limited accessibility by road. That means that unlike other National Parks it is quite possible to visit portions of the park and see only one or two people during your visit. When I last visited Echo Park, at the confluence of the Green and Yampa rivers I only saw a Ranger the whole day, beyond that I had the area to myself. While there I saw elk, bighorn sheep, watched the sun rise over the edge of the canyon at 11 AM while it had risen on the ridges above me hours before. I was also able to see Steamboat Rock, which towers above the Green River and Echo Park as a whole. In 1869 John Wesley Powell passed by on his journey of discovery along the Green, and climbed to the top of the 700 foot Steamboat Rock, despite having lost an arm during the Civil War. Remember, the road to Echo Park is a clay dug way, and not accessible to two cars or low slung SUVs. Should it rain along the upper reaches of the road be prepared to spend the night in Echo Park because the road will become unusable due to the clay.
In addition to the amazing natural history of Echo Park, the road also takes visitors by the historical Chew Ranch. Settled by the Chew family in 1910 they have since moved to the current ranch in the Jensen Utah area (just east of the Quarry Visitor Center). The family left this ranch location two generations ago, but the main house and several outbuildings, including the two hole outhouse, remain. Use caution around the property, and resist the temptation to enter the house or outhouse.
If you are unable to reach Echo Park there are still two very impressive hiking options available, first of all, the Ruple Point Trail, and secondly the Harper’s Corner Trail. Both are along the Harper’s Corner Road, which is 31 miles long. The only water source and only flush toilets are at the Canyon Visitor Center, at the junction with US 40. The Ruple Point Trail crosses open range land and it is common to encounter cattle herds at points along it, and even occasionally mounted cowboys. Its trail is clear, and worth the hike, giving the feel of the region’s uplands. The Harper’s Corner Trail is astonishingly beautiful, and at its end give views more than 2500 feet into the canyon, towards Echo Park and Jones Hole. The chance to watch the sunset’s shadows expand across the Yampa Bench, the area between the high country and the true bottom of the canyon, is one well worth seeing. Remember, there is NO WATER available along either of these trails, so plan your visit accordingly.
Visits to Dinosaur National Monument’s Canyons section can be time consuming, but with the opportunities such a visit provides, the rewards will last a lifetime, an provide memories and stories for all who visit.
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Article by Joshua House