A pod of bottlenose dolphins races alongside your boat as it cuts through the choppy waters of the Pacific Ocean. While a delightful sight, your excitement is slightly tamed, as you know these are only the first of many marine animals that you’ll encounter at the “Galapagos Islands of North America.” Encompassing a total of five islands (in addition to the bodies of water that surround them), Channel Islands National Park is a hidden gem located roughly thirty miles from the California coast. Here hikers perched on top of sea cliffs look on as kayakers paddle through sea caves and as scuba divers enter rich kelp forests teeming with seals and sea lions. A bird lover’s dream and a photographer’s paradise, these historic islands beckon exploration.
Channel Islands National Park is rich in its cultural history of ancient civilizations and explorers. In fact the oldest known human remains ever discovered in North America were found here on Santa Rosa Island. About 7,500 years ago, the northern Channel Islands were home to native Chumash communities, who flourished on the islands for thousands of years, developing sophisticated social, economic, and trade systems. Spanish settlers were the first Europeans to arrive when Juan Rodriguez stepped foot on the islands in 1542. After this initial arrival, there was limited contact between the Spanish settlers and the natives, since it was on rare occasions that travelers stopped by the islands for short periods of time, normally to trade and barter with the Chumash people. Unfortunately, however, it is believed that later in the 1700s, settlers introduced smallpox and measles to the islands, diseases that vanquished much of the native Channel Islands population.
In the 1800s, the civilizations inhabiting the islands and the activities taking place there changed dramatically. The last of the native Chumash population moved to the mainland. Vast sheep and cattle ranches were established on Santa Cruz Island, and the waters surrounding the islands had ushered in waves of poachers who aggressively hunted fish and marine mammals. The aggressive hunting and fishing at the islands provided the impetus for increased regulations in the 1900s to protect the natural resources here and led to the eventual national monument status given to the park, which was later changed to national park status.
While the cultural history of the islands is quite fascinating, the diverse range of animals and plant life in and around the waters of the islands are the most fascinating aspect of this destination. From the boat ride in, a number of dolphin species can be spotted along with migrating gray whales during the winter. Among the flourishing kelp forests of the Pacific waters, seals and sea lions also are some of the more well-known inhabitants. Other large and interesting wildlife often spotted are giant sea bass, which can grow up to seven feet long; California spiny lobster, which can achieve lengths of over three feet; and the voracious sunflower sea star, which has sixteen to twenty-four colorful limbs and an arm span of over a yard, used for capturing and eating their prey.
In addition to these marine animals, Channel Islands is known for many terrestrial animals, such as tree frogs, snakes, lizards, and the endemic subspecies of fox and deer mouse that can be found nowhere else on Earth. In fact, the island fox that are found on six of the eight islands here are each recognized as a unique subspecies. It’s believed that these tiny foxes made their way over to the islands from the mainland about fifteen thousand years ago when water levels were much lower and they could have managed to float a few miles across the ocean on storm debris. In the 1990s, their populations plummeted due to disease and predation by the golden eagle (who’s four times their size) and four subspecies were listed as endangered. Luckily, the NPS initiated a captive breeding program and along with other efforts, the island fox’s population has steadily increased, though it’s still listed as threatened.
Plenty of birds can be found throughout the islands. If you visit in the late spring or early summer, you’ll probably notice the large colonies of western gulls, especially at Anacapa Island — home to the largest breeding colony of western gulls in the world. These large white-headed birds often form long-term pairs and nest almost exclusively on offshore islands like Channel Islands and Alcatraz Island near San Francisco. Other birds that can be found are bald eagles, hawks, peregrine falcons, and shrike among many others. Golden eagles once thrived here but after they decimated the island fox populations in the 1990s, they were caught and removed to the mainland. Although an occasional golden eagle makes an appearance here, they no longer pose any threat to the native island foxes.
There’s a lot to explore at Channel Islands, and since the park is made up of five different islands, you’ll have to choose which island you’d like to visit before you embark on your trip. Unless you catch a break in the normal schedule with two half-day trips, you can only actually “land” on one island per day, although the boat rides to your destination offer sightseeing opportunities of many islands at one time. To assist with your planning, I’ll focus on the two most popular islands, namely Anacapa Island and Santa Cruz Island.
Anacapa Island, the closest island to the shore, is composed of three different small islets: East, Middle, and West. The vast majority of visitors will visit the East islet at Landing Cove. Anacapa Island is a popular choice for many visitors because of the dramatic overlooks, one of which includes Inspiration Point (pictured above), considered by many to be the best view in the entire park. Once you ascend the required 157 stairs to get atop the island, the two-mile trail (the only trail on the East islet) is a relatively flat hike that takes you to several different marvelous overlooks along the island, including Cathedral Cove and Pinniped Point where seals and sea lions can usually be spotted.
Santa Cruz Island, the largest island in the state of California at almost three times the size of Manhattan, is home to the most diverse range of flora and fauna, and one of the largest sea caves in the world. Only 24% of the eastern portion of the island is actually managed by the US National Park Service, but, within this portion of the park, there are plenty of trails to hike and enjoy. These hikes range from easy, short, and flat, to strenuous, long, and rugged. The premier point of interest is Cavern Point, which offers outstanding coastal vistas perfectly suited for whale watching. This trail is a moderate hike at two miles round-trip but can be turned into a longer hike by joining the North Bluff to Potato Harbor Trails for another two miles.
Trips to the other three more remote islands can be arranged, but these trips are usually only offered seasonally, and these islands don’t have quite the same draw as the two main islands, Anacapa and Santa Cruz.
While the park charges no admission, most visitors will have to take a boat to arrive at the park (renting a private boat and/or plane is always an option as well). Water transportation is made through the park’s concessionaire, Island Packers. These boats depart regularly from Oxnard, California, and Santa Barbara, California, and take about an hour to reach the islands. For a round-trip adult ticket you will pay close to $60. This fare makes visiting the Channel Islands a bit pricey, so you want to make sure to maximize your time on the islands.
Some visitors have remarked that, while the scenery is fantastic, visits to islands like Anacapa can be a little underwhelming after the short two miles of trails have been hiked and everything “to be seen” has been seen. For that reason, you may want to stick to the half-day trip if you’re only planning on doing a bit of hiking. However, if you’re adventurous, then I recommend doing a full-day trip to the islands and kayaking through some of the many sea caves or snorkeling/scuba diving to explore the amazing kelp forests. The waters here are exceptionally clear, and visibility can be among the best you’ll find in Southern California. However, water current and wind conditions can present dangers here, so novice kayakers or divers should make sure they are accompanied by guides or experienced partners.
If you’re interested in camping, then consider paying an extra $15 to camp on the islands overnight. Some of the campgrounds are a bit exposed, but, if you can brave the winds with a sturdy tent, you will be rewarded with some of the most brilliant sunsets and sunrises you’ve ever witnessed—especially if you are able to reserve a campground on Anacapa Island near Inspiration Point.
Tips
- While children can have a good time here, parents should take extra precautions when bringing them due to the exposed cliffs along many of the trails.
- Be sure to bring food and water with you as there are no such facilities on the islands.
- Try to plan a visit for spring or autumn. In spring, the hillsides burst into color with wildflowers, and, in the autumn season, clear and calm sunny days provide for the best diving and kayaking conditions.