Located in northeast Wyoming, Devils Tower stands 1,267 feet tall and dominates the surrounding landscape. The National Park Service notes that Devils Tower got its name when Colonel Dodge’s translator misinterpreted the name to mean “Bad God’s Tower,” which was later shortened to Devils Tower. There’s no apostrophe in its name, either (e.g., “it’s not Devil’s”). Apparently, this was due to a typo that occurred in the official documents when President Roosevelt declared Devils Tower as the first ever designated National Monument back in 1906.
This monument was formed by an intrusion, which is the forcible entry of magma into rock. However, geologists aren’t quite in agreement as to what other processes occurred to form the rock. The least accepted theory seems to be one that states that Devils Tower is a volcanic plug, which is basically the inside remnants of a volcano (think of it as the neck of a volcano). This theory is criticized mostly because there isn’t any evidence of volcanic activity in the nearby area, such as lava flows and volcanic ash. Of course, it’s possible that these other remnants could’ve eroded away so it’s important for geologists to keep an open mind about that possibility.
The more likely explanation is that this monolith was once a magma intrusion that cooled and crystallized into a rock type known as “phonolite porphyry.” This is a light to dark-gray igneous rock containing crystals of white feldspar. As the molten rock cooled, it contracted, forming hexagonal (six-sided) columns. While many of the columns are six-sided, some are also 4, 5, and even 7 sided. This difference in shape is a product of the different amount of time it took for different sections of the magma “pool” to crystalize.
After this formation was formed underground, erosion took over and began its work. Different forces of erosion like wind, ice, and especially water, began to eat away at the sedimentary rock layers of sandstone and shale that covered the landscape above and around the Tower. Because the igneous rock making up Devils Tower was far more resistant to erosion than the sandstone and shale, it survived over the years, ultimately rising from below the ground like a massive tombstone.
This process of erosion continues today as sedimentary rocks around the base of Devils Tower are slowly being broken down and washed into the Belle Fourche River. However, chunks of rock from the tower are also being broken down and are crumbling from its cliffs as well. In some very rare instances, even entire columns break off the monolith and come crashing down onto the Earth’s surface. Evidence of the hundreds of boulders and rocks that have fallen from Devils Tower can be seen at its base today.
The monument has always been a sacred place for many different Plains Tribes. In fact, it’s estimated that over twenty different tribes hold some form of significance for this site. Many different tribes performed rituals here like funerals, prayer offerings, and perhaps most notably are the sun dances.
The Lakota traditionally held their sacred Sun Dance at Devils Tower around the summer solstice in June. The NPS notes that the Sun Dance is “…the supreme rite of sacrifice for the society as a whole…” and “…a declaration of individual bravery and fortitude…” “Young men went through the Sun Dance annually to demonstrate their bravery as though they themselves had been captured and tortured, finally struggling to obtain their freedom.”
During this dance young men would have their chests pierced with bones and then be tethered to a central pole. They would then slowly shuffle around this central pole, trying to pull themselves away from the center pole until ripping the bones from their flesh. For those unable to tear their flesh on their own will, their mentors would assist them in pulling the bones through their flesh so that the job would be done by sunset. The tearing of the pierced flesh was symbolic of obtaining freedom and renewal and as you’d expect it took an extreme toll on many of the men, forcing many to experience traumatizing shock and seek care from the local medicine man for their wounds.
The sacredness of this site is why many Native Americans wished for climbing to be banned on the monument. However, as what usually occurs, compromises are reached. Today, climbing is allowed on Devil’s Tower except for the month of June when the traditionally sacred activity of the Sun Dance occurred.
Looking at the sheer vertical cliffs of Devil’s Tower, you might wander how anyone could ever safely scale this monolith but folks have been doing it for over a century.
The first ascent to the summit occurred after two ranchers, William Rogers and Willard Ripley, built a 350-foot wooden ladder to the summit by driving wooden stakes into the vertical crack running between two columns. On July 4, 1893, a thousand spectators watched as Rogers ascended the ladder and ran an American flag up a flagpole. Others eventually followed and On July 4, 1895, William’s wife Linnie Rogers, “wearing knee-high leather boots and navy-blue bloomers,” became the first woman to make the climb to the top of the tower, according to the NPS. Portions of the ladder, which was used until 1927, can still be seen from the south side of the Tower Trail.
Today, about one thousand climbers climb up this tower using technical climbing skills to slowly make their way up the cracks and ledges on the side of this massive rock. You might be surprised to find out but Devils Tower has been climbed by a diverse range of visitors including a six-year-old boy, seven-year-old girl, and even an eighty-one-year-old man, according to the NPS. The most outrageous attempt to conquer Devils Monument has to go to the man who landed atop the rock on a parachute and attempted to descend the tower. Unfortunately, he wasn’t fully prepared for this descent and ended up spending almost a week battling the winds on top of the rock as food and water supplies were air lifted to him and he awaited rescue efforts.
If you’re not up for scaling the cliff sides, you can partake in one of the hikes in the surrounding area. The paved 1.3 mile Tower Trail is the most popular hike at the monument and one of the best ways to experience Devils Tower but there are other trails that take you through meadows and forests that you can explore as well. Visitors can explore the boulder field forming the pedestal of the monolith but if you intend on climbing past the boulder field a permit must be secured.
Tip
- Be sure to check out the prairie dog towns along HWY 110. Don’t get too close to them and don’t feed them anything, but feel free to observe them from a distance as they can be entertaining to watch and listen to.
Cover image by Guido da Rozze.